Telescope Mounts Explained


The Basic Astronomical Telescope Mounts

There are many different types of telescopes used for astronomy. But for amateur astronomy, these can broadly be divided into refractor telescopes and reflecting telescopes. Within each of these categories are short versions (short focal length or catadioptric), and long versions. You choose a short focus telescope if you want to view wide star fields, or need a portable instrument, or both. You might choose a long focus telescope if you want to look at high resolution targets like planets, double stars, and the moon, though there are short reflector designs that can do this well.

As to refractor telescopes, the short ones now available use newer types of glass in the objectives that allow short focal lengths with much less chromatic (color) distortion than older designs. The long refractor telescopes are still made pretty much with crown and flint glass objectives, as these work quite well in long focus designs.

As to reflector telescopes, they can be further divided into Cassegrain (catadioptric) or Newtonian styles. The oldest design is the Newtonian, invented by -- you guessed it -- Isaac Newton. It uses a parabolic mirror at the bottom end of the telescope as the main light collector and image maker, and a small diagonal mirror at the observing end of the telescope that reflects the image out to the eyepiece. The Newtonian telescope, like the refractor telescope, can be made as either short focus or long focus. However, the performance characteristics vary quite a bit with the different focal ratios.

Interestingly, the Cassegrain type reflecting telescopes, though very short in physical design, provide more the performance of a long telescope in that they actually have long effective focal lengths.Having a convex secondary mirror on back of the corrector plate considerable reduces the focusing convergence angle, effectively extending the focal length.

The reason for considering the style of telescope you might most enjoy is that telescope design can have a lot to do with the optimal mounting type for the telescope you choose. As there are different telescope types, there are also different types of telescope mounts. This web page will take you through some of the most common telescope mount types used in amateur astronomy.

Telescopes used for astronomy, whether Newtonian, Dobsonian, Cassegrain, or Refractor, have two basic types of mounts, with variations of each. The simplest telescope mount is called an altazimuth mount, and the more complex one is called the equatorial mount.

The altazimuth telescope mount is certainly the simplest, allowing the telescope to be pointed up and down (elevation), and around (azimuth). This telescope mount type is easy to make, can be very sturdy, and works nicely for visual work.

The more complicated equatorial telescope mount designs are made to facilitate easier tracking of celestial objects, especially for motorized tracking. Each of these come with variations to allow for telescope size and weight, and slow motion or motor control. I'll show here a few of the most common configurations. Incidentally, if you have an altazimuth or equatorial mount with setting circles, the freely available web page utility Star Pointer will also show you where to point your altazimuth or equatorial mounted telescope.

It is common today for modern telescopes to include not only motor driven mounts, but computerized motor drives that allow you to simply select objects via computer or hand-held controller. After selection, the telescope's computer moves the telescope to point at your selected target. These smart altazimuth mounts also allow automatic tracking, something that could only be done with the more complicated equatorial telescope mounts that were more common before the invention of computerized telescope mounts.

These modern telescopes use the computer and drive do the work and locate objects and track them for you. You can buy some pretty incredible computerized mounts for even small telescopes in today's market. Look at this iOptron 9502B-A SmartStar-R80 Computerized Telescope - Astro Blue with Carry Bag for example. And you could always mount something like that to a pipe-fitting base for stability.

If you happen to have, or are only interested in, non-computer driven telescopes, this site has something to offer you. As long as you have setting circles, either in altazimuth or equatorial modes (or are willing to add setting circles), then you can use the Star Pointer utility. Star Pointer is a web page utility designed to list all objects that are above 25 degrees in elevation at your observing location (if you will allow it to keep your location in a cookie). If you want to make some setting circles, you can download the Setting Circle PDF file for a template. Just use a graphic program or copy machine to adjust the size.

Star Pointer presents any one of three popular target catalogs, and provides a periodically updating coordinate table for the objects visible in your location, with their current pointing angles for either altazimuth or equatorial type mounts. Available catalogs include the Messier, the Caldwell, and the Herschel 400. It might really save you time in finding objects, as it tells you precisely where to point your North-aligned telescope. I use it with my Android smart phone and its web browser.


The Altazimuth Mount

Pictured here is a simple configuration of the classic altazimuth telescope mount. The Celestron Heavy-Duty Altazimuth Tripod is a mount of this type -- relatively inexpensive and easy to use.

The altazimuth type telescope mount has a vertical axis (Labeled Az) that is perpendicular to the ground, and a horizontal axis (Labeled Elev) that is parallel to the ground. Movement of the telescope in the elevation axis points the telescope up or down, with a zero angle being level with the ground. Rotation in the azimuth direction moves the telescope around between the cardinal directions, with zero being North.

As shown with the 50mm refractor in this picture, such a mount in combination with a small telescope often doesn't even need a counter weight. If you happened to observe from the North or South Pole, the vertical axis would be aligned with the Earth's spin axis. The nice thing about that would be that when you found an object to observe, rotation around only the vertical axis would be needed to keep the object in the field of view. Rotating at the Earth's spin rate in the opposite direction as the Earth's rotation would keep and object motionless in the eyepiece.

However, for observing from any other latitude on the planet, the vertical axis is not aligned with the Earth's spin axis. This means that to keep an object in the field of view requires motion in both axes. The motion rates will change over time as the elevation angle changes. Tracking objects near the horizon requires mostly changes in elevation, and tracking objects more North or South requires mostly changes in azimuth.

The altazimuth telescope mount is the simplest mount to build, and inexpensive telescopes often come with some variation of this type of mount. If you happen to have a telescope that doesn't have a mount, or one with an inadequate mount, you can build a substantial altazimuth mount out of pipe fittings, polishing the threads on the two axes with a bit of valve grinding compound. The total cost can be as low as about $75. A description of such a mount is at Inexpensive DIY Tripod.

Since the increasing integration of computers into the astronomy hobby, the altazimuth mount is getting more frequent use. By putting a drive motor on both axes of the altazimuth telescope mount and using a computer to calculate the correct drive rate on each motor for any given target, smart altazimuth telescopes like the Celestron NexStar 5 SE Telescope have entered the hobby in a big way, particularly because of their convenience and their surprising affordability.






The Dobsonian Mount

The Dobsonian mount is a common mount for Newtonian telescopes. The Dobsonian mount is just another configuration of the altazimuth mount. It has a vertical axis perpendicular to the ground, and an elevation axis that is parallel to the ground. The Dobsonian design can be as compact as on this Orion StarBlast 4.5 Astro Reflector Telescope, or husky enough to easily handle something like the Orion SkyQuest XT8 Classic Dobsonian Telescope. In fact, Dobsonian telescope models up to 15 inch are commercially available, and ATM designs handle up to 30 inch telescopes.

The image above is an illustration of changes in azimuth. The Dobsonian telescope base usually sits on 3 Teflon pads, making a smooth bearing with a very big diameter. This gives good support for large Newtonian telescopes. Slight nudges are all that's needed to move a Dobsonian mounted telescope around the azimuth axis.

This image is an illustration of changes in elevation. The elevation axis bearings usually sit on a couple of Teflon pads, again making for simple, stable, and smooth bearings. The larger the telescope, the larger in diameter are the elevation axis shafts. As with azimuth, simple nudges to a properly made Dobsonian telescope are all that's needed to move it smoothly in elevation.

The advantages of the Dobsonian telescope mount are it's simplicity, low cost, and ability to handle large telescopes. If you can use a saw, you can likely make a fine Dobsonian mount to complete any reflector telescope project. Check out the plans at Making A DobsonianMount. For amazingly low prices, you can buy Dobsonian telescopes ready to use, like the Orion SkyQuest XT6 Classic Dobsonian Telescope.

6 Inch f/5 DOB


The above image is my f/5 Newtonian mounted in a DOB mount based on the Stellefane DOB Design. The telescope is the same one that originally came (years ago) mounted on an Equatorial Mount. The Equatorial Mount provided a clock driven mount, and being an equatorial design only required one drive motor. The above DOB design offers an easier to move around and more convenient to use mount, albeit without the clock drive.


The Equatorial Mount

Shown above is my f/5 Newtonian reflector telescope on an equatorial mount -- specifically a German equatorial mount. You can see that it looks more complicated than the altazimuth mount. What makes it more complicated is that it has an axis with an adjustable tilt. That adjustable axis is called the polar axis. The Celestron Omni XLT 150 Telescope is a currently available telescope much like my purchase.

The equatorial mount shown with this telescope is popular because it simplifies the tracking of celestial objects. For any given location on the Earth, the polar axis can be adjusted to align with the Earth's rotational axis, thus properly compensating for Earth rotation at the observer's Latitude. Having this axis tipped to the proper angle necessitates the use of counter weights to keep the telescope in any given position.

Many equatorial mounted telescopes have an alignment telescope mounted within the polar axis, making alignment easy. The above image shows some of the parts of a typical equatorial mount, including the built in Polar alignment telescope. You merely look through the polar axis telescope and center Polaris (for North hemisphere observers) in the field of view, then lock down the adjustment.

Why tip one axis, you might ask? I could go into all the geometry, but it stands to reason that if the Earth's rotation about its spin axis is what makes stars move across the night sky, something aligned with the Earth's spin axis would provide a means of compensating for the motion of the Earth around that axis. A mount with one axis aligned with the Earth's spin axis is much easier to motorize. A single motor on the polar axis that rotates in the opposite direction of the Earth's spin at the Earth rotation rate (once per sidereal day) will do the trick. No computer is necessary, in that the motor rate is constant.

The R A in the diagram near the Polar Axis label stands for right ascension. If you look at a star chart, you will see a grid of lines that look much like the latitude and longitude lines on Earth maps. Star coordinates are mapped onto a two dimensional grid much like the grid used to signify Earth object coordinates. The star coordinates have different names, those being right ascension (similar to longitude) and declination (similar to latitude).

The star grid moves with respect to the Earth grid because of Earth's rotation with respect to the stars. In an evening you'll see the position of any particular star or pattern of stars move though the sky (at 15 degrees per hour as it happens). So while the star grid coordinates of a star are constant, the star grid itself rotates with respect to the Earth system.



The Fork Mount - Altazimuth Mode

This image illustrates the popular fork mount. Cassegrain telescopes often use this type of mount because of their short tube length. The fork telescope mount is particularly well suited for the shorter telescope designs.

In this configuration, the fork mount is sitting in the altazimuth mode, a configuration not useful for astronomical viewing, but handy for viewing daylight targets. Note that like the refractor and Dobsonian illustrations, the telescope shown can move around a vertical axis (azimuth) and a horizontal axis (elevation).

The telescope shown is my ETX 90M Meade telescope. It is an older model, and only has a drive motor on one axis. Newer versions of fork mount made by Meade, Celestron, and others have computerized mounts with motor drives in both axes, and are most often used in the altazimuth configuration. The modern ETX 90, for example, no longer uses just the single motor drive like my old model, but is modernized into the Meade Instruments ETX90 Observer model. You can still see what looks like a fork mount on the new ETX 90, but it operates in the altazimuth orientation.

With these computerized instruments, the altazimuth mode is a fully functional star tracking configuration, with the computer adjusting the speed of the two motors to keep the telescope pointed at a particular object.



The Fork Mount - Equatorial Mode

This fork mounted telescope image shows my old ETX 90 model in the equatorial configuration. Note that what was the vertical axis is now tipped to the observer's latitude angle. With the tipped (Polar) axis aligned with the Earth's spin axis, the single motor drive of the telescope is sufficient for tracking targets.

The small black box with the red button that you see in the image is a modification I added to the telescope to give a fast/slow motion slewing control. By pushing the red button, part of the drive circuitry is bypassed which speeds up the motor, providing a slow slewing motion. Pushing the black button stops the motor, allowing Earth's rotation to catch up.

The equatorial mode fork mount was common on older Cassegrains. It is still a good mode for even the newer ones for long exposure astrophotography.



Personal Notes

The telescopes with a computer on board to provide altazimuth tracking include an extensive database of thousands of objects. Before taking advantage of the computerized mount, you must put the telescope through an alignment sequence, then you can simply select objects from the database and the telescope automatically slews to the selections.

To get the most efficiency in observing sessions with my computer controlled telescope, I still make use of the Star Pointer web utility. Even though the telecope's computer already knows where the star targets are, I have to tell it which ones I want to observe. If I'm unprepared and happen to pick objects scattered around the sky, I'll spend a lot of time waiting as the motors whir as they move from target to target.

But the Star Pointer utility makes a list of all targets that are above the horizon, and arranges them in azimuth order. So if I select targets from the browser displayed list to enter into my computerized telescope, the telescope will have to travel very little to get from one target to the next. That saves a lot of time.

The down side of the two-motor, computer driven altazimuth mount is that the field of view through the eyepiece rotates as the telescope tracks. This isn't true for equatorial mounted telescopes. For viewing purposes this slow field rotation is hardly a problem. But if you intend to do long-exposure astrophotography, you need to have a motorized equatorial mount to facilitate tracking without field rotation.

The good news is that the two motor, computer driven mounts can generally be operated in an equatorial mode as shown in the Nexstar 5SE image above. In fact, the NexStar 5SE has a built in wedge as it is called, that allows use in equatorial mode. Some other such telescopes don't have the wedge built in, but have it available as an accessory.

Purists will also point out that if you start out with a computer driven telescope, you won't learn nearly as much about the night sky. There is something enjoyable about having the skill to find objects without the aid of a computer.

I've used both equatorial and altazimuth mounts. A couple of equatorial mounts were home made, and a couple were commercial. I can tell you that the home made ones were heavy and clumsy, and even at their hefty size were inadequate for the 8 inch and 10 inch telescopes I attempted to mount on them.

Most of the commercial ones are a bit flimsy also, but the one shown in these pictures (with the 6 inch f/5 Newtonian telescope) is actually quite smooth and sturdy. When I bought my Newtonian telescope from Discovery Telescopes, they admitted to me that the telescope and mount were actually imported (from China I suspect), but the optics were made by Discovery. I've had to do a few tweaks on the instrument and tripod mount to get the best performance, but in the end I'm very happy with the unit.

As to altazimuth mounts, most of the ones I've used are home made. I constructed a couple of Dobsonian telescope mounts and a couple of pipe fitting telescope mounts. In each case, these mounts performed admirably. I guess the point of the story is that altazimuth mounts are easier to make and use, supporting the fact that Dobs are the most often home constructed telescope. But if photography is your goal, then as some point you'll likely end up with an equatorial mounted telescope.









 

MicroObservatory Obtained Photos

Easy Astro Photography

This web page describes a method you can use to take star object photos even if you don't have the gear to do that, using the Harvard-Smithsonian Astrophysics Lab MicroObservatory. You can learn more about the MicroObservatory at About MicroObservatory.

If you've been involved with amateur astronomy for awhile, you've probably gotten some itch to take photographs through your telescope. Some of you may have even tried, and found the adventure to be a bit daunting, or at least tedious. Even snatching a few moon images with a cell phone held to the eyepiece of your telescope is a challenge. A few of you have probably invested in the photography aspect of the hobby and collected some amazing photographs.

In some ways, the digital photography revolution has made some types of astrophotography easier, but it is a meticulous endeavor even so. I've only owned relatively inexpensive or homemade telescopes for my 60 years of observing, but I've managed to collect a few nice shots when I put in the effort. Even so I've managed some decent lunar and planetary photos, and even a small number of star object photos. But with my modest equipment I've not often been up to the effort it takes to obtain astronomy photos.

The Challenges of Star Photography

Star photography is a bit tougher than solar system (moon, planets) photography, or at least it takes some more equipment. With star photography, you need to take time exposures, at least of several seconds up to a few minutes.

In the old film camera days, this in and of itself was pretty easy. Any old 35mm camera could take time exposures, as long of exposures as you wanted. The problem for star photography was (and is) to keep the camera pointed precisely at the same stars during the exposure. To get a digital camera that takes times exposures over 30 seconds, you must make a serious investment.

To avoid star trails caused by earth's rotation, you need a motorized mount. And even if you have one, just putting a camera looking through the telescope and locking the shutter open doesn't cut it. For anything over a few seconds exposure, you need to either view through a guide telescope so you can make adjustments on the fly, or invest in an auto-guider that will feed back to control the mount on the fly. A lot of amateur telescopes don't have a mount that has that feedback capability, leaving you with the guide scope approach.

Adding a guide scope increases the weight of your apparatus, upping the strength requirement of your telescope mount. It also means making the entire package less portable, if that is of importance.

The Simplest Star Photography -- Piggyback

Piggyback Mounted Camera

If you can be satisfied with low magnification, wide field images of the stars, you can just mount a camera piggyback on your telescope as shown above, letting the camera use its own lens (or a telephoto lens) as the telescope mount moves the mount to compensate for earth rate. This lets you use the main telescope as the guide telescope. This doesn't up the requirement of your motor driven mount very much.

Again, an old 35mm camera is still a pretty good option for this, as most any model can have the shutter locked open for as long as you need. You'll still need a significant investment if you want to do this with a digital camera, in that inexpensive ones don't do long time exposures.

Below is an example of piggyback photography. It's an image of Hale Bopp comet as it appeared some years ago, taken with a very modest telescope and a clock driven mount, and a camera with a 135mm telephoto lens taking a ride alongside the telescope.

Hale Bopp Comet Using Piggyback Method

There are a lot of star fields, some large nebula, and sections of the Milky Way that can be photographed using piggyback photography. There are some interesting events, like times the moon passes near a star field or plant, or when a planet is in a star field. You just need some kind of Piggyback Camera mount, like this  Piggyback Camera Mount, to hold your camera.

Star Object Photography Through the Telescope

But the real prize is time exposure of star objects directly through your (or a) telescope. Telescopes provide the light gathering power and small field of view that allow images like the Orion Nebula shown below:

Orion Nebula Using MicroObservatory Telescope

That's the kind of image I've been wanting to achieve for years, but never felt I could invest in the equipment that would make such photographs possible. Now that I'm older (much older), I'm not into the tedium that such an effort might take. Outdoor tedium anyway. But I am into computer tedium on taking raw data and processing it into a photo.

Enter the Remote Observatory

So if you share the star photography desire, and also have the concerns of cost and or time expense, you can try what I did. I searched for a remote-controlled telescope that I might get access to so that I could get images with that equipment, then use my own software to process the images. There are now a few of those observatories around that allow most anyone to use them. Some are freely available, and some work on a subscription basis, usually some tens of dollars per month.

The free observatories are usually housed with smaller instruments, and the subscription ones with larger instruments. I decided to try out a facility created by the Harvard-Smithsonian Center for Astrophysics called the MicroObservatory. The facility is primarily intended as an aid for teaching astronomy with some hands on experience, so it is geared for teachers and students. Even so, some use of the facility is open to the general public.

The MicroObservatory consists of about 5 remotely controlled 6 inch Maksutov-Newtonian reflectors. They are pretty portable units, so they get moved around some. At the time of the writing of this web page, some of the instruments were at the Harvard College Observatory, some at the Whipple Observatory in Amado, AZ, and at least one in the Coquimbo region of Chile.

At the MicroObservatory Web page, you can select items you'd like to obtain photos of from a modest but common collection of possible targets. You specify the desired Field of View (sometimes only one is appropriate and available), the exposure time, and any filters you'd like used. You then supply an email address and answer a few questions on the request form. Within the next day or two, depending upon weather conditions at the telescope sites, you'll get an email with links to your images.

What Do You Get

The images you are given links to are raw images. Raw? Yes, the images are certainly not immediately impressive, and will require some work to produce what you want, kind of like the work involved in developing film.

If you go for nebulae, then you likely want color images, and for that you'll receive 3 images each taken through a different color filer (red, green, and blue). From those raw color filtered images, you must construct a full color image.

Raw Image of the Orion Nebula

You are unimpressed I bet. Now you get a feel for the processing that must be done to get the image of Orion shown earlier in this page. You can see some bleeding spikes, and when processed likely some odd tails on some of the bright stars. These are results of some saturated pixels bleeding over, and some processing issues on site. You have to deal with all of that to get your image.

So while you're not using your own telescope, you aren't exactly getting a finished product you can jam into your web site or blog, either. But with some processing, you can get images of decent quality for the size of telescope (6 inch).

There is an image processing lab on the MicroObservatory site, so you can process your images there if you like (there are tutorials), or you can download the images and work on them on your own computer. My choice is to download the images and create my own software for processing, as that's a main interest of mine.

The image processing app at the MicroObservatory web page is a clever and well written Java application. For my home-grown processing, I work primarily with Perl and the PDL perl extension. Perl with the PDL extension is loaded with image processing capabilities, designed in fact by astronomers some years ago. Some of the images I processed with software created with the Euler Math Toolbox

As a footnote, it's worth mentioning that if you are interested in this approach, there's an additional benefit, the details of which change time to time. That is, the MicroObervatory telescopes, being small at 6 inch aperture, are portable and get moved around some. And as mentioned, at the creation time of this web page in 2020, at least one instrument was located in the Coquimbo region of Chile, giving access to Southern Hemisphere targets.


Processing MicroObservatory Images

As mentioned earlier, there is a utility on the MicroObservatory site for processing images. It gives a number of controls, including merging red, green, and blue component images to create a color image. In general the process is:

  • If a Dark image is provided in the email link for the object, subtract it from the object image.
  • Remove image background bias to make background black.
  • Set max scale.
  • If red, green, and blue filters were used, co-align the color components to produce a final image.
  • If processing with your own software, consider an algorithm to remove hot pixels (anomalous pixels much hotter than surround pixels)
  • With a general purpose image editor, edit star anomolies introduced by the data collecting system

  • Some MicroObservatory Image Examples

    On this web page are displayed a number of images I obtained using the MicroObservatory instruments. They consist of a collection of open clusters, globular clusters, nebula, and galaxies. One moon picture is included, though the system is most useful for star object pictures. In each case I downloaded the raw images when they were available, and worked to produce the final products you see here. Some of the images were processed with programs written in Perl, using the PDL math/graphics extension. Others were processed with the Linux version of Euler Math Toolbox.

    Photos Taken With MicroObservatory Instruments

    Processed With Perl PDL or Euler Math Toolbox

    Open Images in New Tab for Enlarged View

    Moon

    Moon, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Amado, AZ, 0.1 sec exposure. 

    Lunar Eclipse
     

    2021 Lunar Eclipse via MicroObservatory. The MicroObservatory only provides b/w moon images, so this had proper lunar eclipse color added.

    Orion Nebula

    Orion Nebula, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Amado, AZ, 60 sec exposure, stack of 7 images.

    Andromeda Galaxy
     

    Andromeda Galaxy, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Amado, AZ, 60 sec exposure, stack of 9 images.


    Crab Nebula

    Crab Nebula, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Amado, AZ, 60 sec exposure

    M101 Galaxy

    M101 galaxy, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Amado, AZ, 60 sec exposure

    M15 Globular Cluster

    M15 globular cluster, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Amado, AZ, 60 sec exposure

    M33 Galaxy

     

    M33 galaxy, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Amado, AZ, 60 sec exposure, stack of 8 images.

    M82 Galaxy

    M82 galaxy, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Amado, AZ, 60 sec exposure

    Dumbbell Nebula
     
    Dumbbell nebula, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Cambridge, MA, 60 sec exposure
     
    M13 Globular Cluster
     

    M13 globular cluster, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Cambridge, MA, 60 sec exposure, stack of 9 images.

    M57 Nebula
     

    M57 planetary nebula, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Amado, AZ, 60 sec exposure

    Helix Nebula

     

    Helix Nebula, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Amado, AZ, 60 sec exposure, stack of 9 images. This needed more exposure, but public use of the equipment didn't offer longer exposures.

    Pinwheel Galaxy

    Pinwheel galaxy, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Amado, AZ, 60 sec exposure

    Whirlpool Galaxy

     

    Whirlpool galaxy, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Amado, AZ, 60 sec exposure

    Centaurus A Galaxy

    Centaurus A galaxy, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Amado, AZ, 60 sec exposure

    NGC891 Galaxy

    NGC891 galaxy, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Amado, AZ, 60 sec exposure



    Images From Southern Hemisphere Instruments


    Beehive Cluster

    Beehive cluster, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Coquimbo, Chile, 60 sec exposure

    Omega Centauri Cluster

    Omega Centauri globular cluster, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Coquimbo, Chile, 60 sec exposure

    Carina Nebula

    Carina Nebula, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Coquimbo, Chile, 

    Tarantula Nebula

    Tarantula Nebula, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Coquimbo, Chile, 60 sec exposure

    47 Tucanae Globular Cluster

    47 Tucanae globular cluster, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Coquimbo, Chile, 60 sec exposure

    Rosette Nebula

    Rosette Nebula, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Coquimbo, Chile, 60 sec exposure

    Large Magellanic Cloud

    Large Magellanic Cloud, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Coquimbo, Chile, 60 sec exposure

    Small Magellanic Cloud

    Small Magellanic Cloud, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Coquimbo, Chile, 60 sec exposure

    Lagoon Nebula

    Lagoon Nebula, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Coquimbo, Chile, 60 sec exposure, stack of 8 images.

    Trifid Nebula

    Trifid Nebula, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Coquimbo, Chile, 60 sec exposure, stack of 10 images.

    Eagle Nebula
     

    Eagle Nebula, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Coquimbo, Chile, 60 sec exposure

    Homunculus Nebula

    Homunculus Nebula*, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Coquimbo, Chile, 60 sec exposure

    M21 Open Cluster

    M21 Open cluster, 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Coquimbo, Chili, 60 sec exposure

    NGC2477 Cluster

    NGC2477 open cluster , 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Coquimbo, Chile, 60 sec exposure

    NGC253 Galaxy

    NGC253 galaxy* , 6 inch Mak-Newt MicroObservatory Telescope at Coquimbo, Chile, 60 sec exposures, stack of 3 images

    Summary

    The archive indicated images were those I either didn't ask for on the MicroObservatory request form, or the images I requested didn't turn out well. So in those instances I pulled a raw image from the MicroObservatory archive and processed that with my software.

    So, what do you think? I've read of some dedicated amateurs who think that using such a facility is cheating. I guess I look at it as sharing a telescope. The instruments of the MicroObservatory are about the same size and optical capabilities as the instruments that many amateur astronomers have (6 inch), but are specialized in having more robust and higher precision mounts, plus a built in CCD camera.

    I could alternately invest several hundred dollars into an astro-camera with auto-guider and equip my Celestron Nexstar 5SE for the task. But with an auto-guider, I'd have about as much photographic skill involved in the image taking part as I have using the MicroObservatory. In either case, I'd be using my computer and programming skills to reduce the images, as I am with the MicroObservatory images.

    It depends on which end of the photographic exercise you get the most fun out of, the instrument handling part or the computer image processing part (or both). I enjoy the computer processing part the most, so using the MicroObservatory to gather images that my equipment isn't set up to handling seems a good compromise.

    So it's clearly up to you. The MicroObservatory uses amateur sized instruments, and provides you only the raw data (images). For me, it allows me to put my funds into great portable telescopes for observing, and not have to move to much more expensive and less portable telescopes to do the photography, which for me is just a hobby anyway.

    While there is still tedium involved in processing the images to their fullest potential, there is no tedium in getting the raw image. It also lets me stay engaged in astronomy during the winter months where my old bones limit my willingness to venture out on cold nights. For solar system photography, I can get great results with my ETX 90 and NexStar 5SE, which I intend to still use occasionally for that purpose.

    If any of this sounds interesting to you, you may want to check out the Harvard-Smithsonian MicroObservatory for yourself. It costs you nothing. How can you lose?

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